Honda ABS & VSA Dash Lights Stay On? – Easy Fault Reset Procedure.
Are one or both of the ABS and/or VSA dash lights on your Honda as shown below staying on all the time? Have you recently had a dead or weak battery and couldn’t start the car? Read on, this may be just the solution you are looking for to clear those fault codes and save you having to go to a dealer and pay a labor charge.
A couple of times our 2013 Honda Odyssey battery has become discharged enough so the car won’t start (low voltage), usually due to our umbilical cable having some sort of issue while towing it behind our motorhome and not charging the battery. However, even after boosting the battery (we carry a portable booster just for such occasions) and getting the vehicle started, the ABS and VSA dash lights remain illuminated indicating a fault. In this instance, clearly the “fault” is some anomaly caused by the low battery voltage. The procedure below has worked for us to clear/reset the “fault” generated by the low battery voltage condition. This procedure probably applies to many models and model years of Honda vehicles.
Of course one repair option is to take the vehicle to a dealer to clear/reset the fault, but that is going to cost $50-$100 or more based on various reports I have seen. After fooling around with advice from various sources and checking fuses and disconnecting the battery negative cable for several hours with no success, I found the following procedure which worked perfectly:
Honda ABS / VSA Fault Reset Procedure:
- Short pins 4 and 9 on the OBD connector located under the dash on the driver side. I used a paper clip, but any stiff (solid) light gauge wire will do. Click on the photo below right to expand and you can see the pin numbers marked in the plastic.
- Now put your foot on the brake pedal and hold it down lightly while turning on the ignition switch to position “II” (all the dash lights come on, but don’t start it).
- The ABS indicator will come on, but then should go off, at this point release the brake pedal (some have found better success by releasing the pedal quickly after the light comes on).
- The ABS light should come on again, press the brake pedal again and hold down lightly.
- The ABS light should go off again, release the brake pedal (some have found better success by releasing the pedal quickly after the light goes off).
- After a few seconds watch for the ABS light to blink twice and go off, if it does you have successfully cleared the fault codes.
- Turn the ignition switch off, remove the key and disconnect the jumper wire from the OBD connector.
- If the ABS light comes back on again after step #7, do the entire procedure again, it may take a few tries to get the fault codes to clear.
Please note that if the ABS/VSA code has illuminated for some more serious reason than a discharged battery (such as a bad sensor or failed hardware) this procedure is probably not going to work and you will likely need to visit a dealer.
Push Button Start:
A reader posted the following comment (thanks!):
Worked great on a 2014 Accord EX-L with Push-Button start. If it wasn’t already noted, Begin with the original instructions of inserting the jumper. Do not step on the brake, but press the start button once to get to accessory (or ‘I’). Now follow the original steps by stepping on the brake and pressing the start button again, this will get you to ‘II’ but will not start the engine.
Power Sliding Doors Won’t Open!
Another annoying side effect of the VSA/ABS lights being illuminated (besides the fact that the important safety features of anti-lock braking and stability assist are disabled), is the two power sliding rear doors on the Odyssey will not open with the engine running. This is because the doors are programmed not to open if the car is in motion, but without the ABS working the computer can’t determine if the car is moving or not, so by default it disables those doors. If you turn the power door slide switch to OFF (see photo right), it is possible to manually open the door while the engine is running even with the ABS/VSA light illuminated. Note that the door will still close electrically with the engine running as long as the slide switch is ON. Also, the doors will close and open normally with full power control as long as the engine is off.
I was very lucky found out this article. Why Honda has this problem? They just want to make more people go to their dealer to fix this problem but not the problem? Thank you very much Rob.
Glad to be of help! Not sure, but I might not totally lay blame on Honda, I think it is just a glitch that happens from time to time on the CAN (OBDII) network, Honda may be somewhat at the mercy of the third parties that supply that standardized software/hardware environment.
Works fo my honda accord 2010 ,you are the best thanks
Awesome, thanks for the update!
What happen if we don’t fix it?.. Are they causes of gearbox damaged ?
If the reset procedure does not work, your problem is likely more serious than a glitch and you may need professional help. Often the problem will be related to ABS sensors but could be a few other things as well.
Rob, you the man! Worked for my 2013 Odyssey EX-L.
Big thank you.
Hey I have the same problem with my 2011 TL… my problem is I have a push button so there is no way for me to put it into ignition 2 while the foot is on the brake. Do you have any suggestions?
Sorry no, but if you figure it out please report your findings!
I have same issues but push button start. not sure how to proceed. Any help?
ROHAN here from JAMAICA,he was not telling you about second ignition,he was just saying when you insert the key turn it two times and you will get ignition, the marks on the switch will show( I II III )so with your push button your first push is accessory,second push is ignition then hold to start.
Got the same problem need help
It’s should be a recall . Abs sensor is $1500 fix
My Dad’s father in law just has this problem with his ridge line and I followed the procedure stop by step, it reset the fault codes on the dash, but the battery was still dead so we couldn’t start it right away, my dad came home and was pissed at me for doing this, I was just trying to help, they jumped it off but now that he’s killed the ignition its not cranking again and he says the a/c isn’t blowing, can this procedure mess the vehicle up?
No it should not cause any problems. It sounds like you have a dead battery. The procedure is intended to clear the ABS/VSA error lights that often occur due to a low voltage “glitch” from a dead or weak battery. If you have a weak or dead battery get that fixed before you do anything else. If the procedure does not clear the VSA/ABS lights after fixing the battery then you may have an actual mechanical failure. Any other problems you have are unrelated.
I followed the steps, ABS blinked twice, turned off key and took off jumper, now my car wont turn over. Battery is charged. It just beeps and wont start. not sure what to do. Thanks for any input.
Jeff, sorry to hear that. Looking thru the comments there were two cases (out of hundreds of successes) with a similar problem. One mentioned a blown fuse (although the OBD jumper won’t do that if inserted in the correct pins) and another mentioned an issue with the “immobilizer” which I think has to do with keyless systems. You didn’t say year, model, or if keyless, but check the ignition related fuses and the keyfob immobilizer if keyless. Do you have any add-on security system? You could try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset everything. You could also try with the shift in neutral. Good luck.
Thanks for input Rob. It ended up being my battery. Your method for clearing dashboard worked just fine. Thanks!!
Great! Well not so much for the battery…
My VSA light was on along with several others -the dealership told me it would be $4000 to fix as it was a failed VSA module: I took it home unplugged the VSA module waited 10 seconds and plugged it back in everything is now fixed. This is why I don’t trust dealerships!
Great info, thanks for posting!
Did you ever find out how to get your car started? i followed the steps , but my battery was charged, now car wont turn over. Just wondering what you did to remedy this problem. thanks
Scott Perkins, how did you unplu the module?
I have a 2009 crv Honda- abs vas& triangle all stay on- your method clears them but they all come back on with in a few hundred feet- was wondering if the valve stem sensors in the wheels could cause this- I have one wheel that just has an ordinary valve stem in it- interestingly enough the tpms or low pressure lights do not come on& seem to work- I thought those sensors were for tire pressure- I’ve replaced all 4 wheel sensors & have checked for continuity back to the abs module- was wondering if there was a way to test the sensors at the wheels with a multi meter & turn wheel by hand- I don’t have a scanner that works in the abs system
Raymond, yeah it sounds like you have a deeper issue. I’m not a mechanic but I doubt it has anything to do with the TPMS. I think you are on the right track tho troubleshooting the ABS sensors and module. Sorry I can’t be of more help. Good luck!
Rob and others – thanks for this article. I have e exactly the same problem on my honda odessey after jump starting a deal battery owing to we leaving the lights on overnight by mistake
But I am struggling to locate where is this OBD connector pins under dashboard on driver side in 2013 odessey
Is there a video on how to reach the same ?
Thank you so much
I don’t have my Odyssey anymore so sorry i don’t have a video, but it is under the dash to the left of the wheel and is normally easily accessible. This is true of most any car. It has to be easily accessible because the first thing a dealer does these days is plug in their diagnostics device. Sorry I can’t be of more help.
I have an 08 honda accord . vsa and abs came on I parked turn off car and doors started locking on its own key out of the ignition . I trued turning it on and it wouldn’t start instead the alarm went off I pulled key out and turned alarm off. I waited few seconds and car wouldn’t start but all lights would come on on the dashboard after the 3rd try car started and no abs or vsa light was on anymore. Getting it towed to the mechanics tomrrow. Wish I had help instead of having to go through all this since now my kids will. Have to miss school bcuz I dont feel safe driving it now.
Hi, do you guys know if this procedure cause a short? I just want to make sure I won’t have a bigger problem. Like messing up the computer.
2011 accord k24z3 had a blowout r.rear at 140kmh on a steep downhill ridge while negotiating a bend .TSA system prevented me from spinning off the road a few times while bringing the car to a safe stop. Whew. TSA does not throw a code on my android app/smartphone. Did try battery disconnect blahs blahs…Thank you Rob worked first time.
Wow, scary, glad you are OK! And happy to hear the procedure worked for you.
It worked for me also. Thanks for the help
Great! Thanks for letting us know!
Had the vsa and abs light on after driving about an hour with abs always being applied softly when driving under 40 mph and hard abs when stopping. Had the abs sensor replaced 4 times. Finally Honda found the problem, the old abs sensor had broken inside the brake ball bearing. The rotation of the wheel grinded the plastic abs part into the metal surface groove of the bearing and coated it and grounded it down not allowing the new sensor to receive and maintain the vsa signal to do its job. Pass this on. It will solve many an abs vsa problem.
My 2012 Honda Civic DX sat one day and battery was dead. Jumped it and it had ABS/VSA/power steering lights. After replacing alternator and battery the lights were still on. Thought it was a bad abs modulator that was constantly running draining the battery. Did this and it fixed my civic and car is perfect. I feel like I owe you money now.
Ha! Glad it saved you a few. Pay it forward and make a donation to a needy organization…
Thx for the help ROB, took a couple of tries but cleared the fault and saved an expensive trip to the Dealer. Thank you very much.
Nigel, British Columbia
Glad to have helped!
Yes, thanks worked like a champ, but went to get my 2012 odyssey smogged and would not pass, needed to do a drive cycle.
Good info, thanks.
Rob, thanks for sparing me a Saturday at the dealership + the min $79 Svc charge. Took 3 attempts of pushing through my increasingly challenged dexterity, failing eyesight and creaky old bones, but finally cleared the low voltage code in my 2012 Odyssey. ABS and VSA lights restored to normal and power doors open with ignition on!
My message to others: If at first you don’t succeed….(I was not going to try a 4th time, so got lucky)
John, thanks for your report and so glad you got it to work!
Omg!!!!! Thank goodness for people like you!!! 2012 Odyssey. I’m not sure what combination worked, but 10 minutes worth of trying and the doors work!
Great I found this. Have 2017 Accord, battery died, restarted had the flashing ABS/Traction/TPMS lights, checked all fuses etc, then this simple procedure worked. Thank you
Great! Thanks for letting us know!
Worked for 2011!
Used a thick paper clip, had to try a few times
Great, thanks for letting us know!
Worked on the first try. You deserve a Nobel peace prize for this. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
Can I say DO NOT try the paperclip method..I just tried it and blew a fuse ..my car entertainment system and central locking now doesn’t work!
Worked well on a 2016 Honda Odyssey Touring. Like many others, I too did not get it to work in first few tries but the rapid brake release did the trick. Thank you to the OP. Saved me a bunch of money!
Great, thanks for the feedback!
I have a 2016 Odyssey also but if i step on the break the car will turn on. How do you do position 2 without turning on engine?
See the section on Push Button Start submitted by a reader. I have not tried this since my year has a key but others have reported success. The text is repeated below:
“Worked great on a 2014 Accord EX-L with Push-Button start. If it wasn’t already noted, Begin with the original instructions of inserting the jumper. Do not step on the brake, but press the start button once to get to accessory (or ‘I’). Now follow the original steps by stepping on the brake and pressing the start button again, this will get you to ‘II’ but will not start the engine.”
Yes thank you! At work last one to leave late and of course I have a paper clip in my purse! Amen!
Your solution worked. Thanks for the sharing
Awesome, thanks for the comment!
THe photos are not loading any chance you could send them again, so that I know which boxes are 4 and 9?
Try it now. We have been having a lot of problems lately with Google photos. What browser are you using? Let me know if it works ok now…
Google, and no it is still not showing. Thanks for trying.
Sent you an email with the images…
Can you also send me the pictures? I can’t see them.
Can you send me the pictures as well? I can’t see the images
rob ty light is out now but my problem now is my sliding door wont open it now even if its not running you think its a fuse blown?
Can you also send me the pictures? I can’t see them. I need to try this on my own before I take it to a dealership. Thank you!
This worked for my 2015 Honda Accord. My ABS, VSA and Tire Pressure warning light stayed on after I replaced my front rotors and pads. I had turned the car on to use the power steering while the brake calipers were unbolted. I think this triggered the indicators. This video helped me to reset the indicator lights.
Great Tom, happy to hear it worked for you!
rob ty light is out now but now my sliding door wont open at all times even van is not running what u think ty
Could be, but it would seem unlikely that a fuse would blow during this process. First make sure the switch for the sliding doors is turned to the on position. The switch is above the two sliding door buttons on the left side of the dash, see last photo in the blog post.
Next, open and close all the doors, then start up the car and try again. Seems to me, immediately after the reset, or a battery disconnect, the door motors would not work, but after a couple of ignition cycles they went back to normal.
If that doesn’t work for sure check the fuses, there are several fuse box locations, check the owner’s manual for where they are and which fuses are involved.
Ty rob I fix it fuse blown out tyvm
Sir rob this is my problem right now for my honda odyssey 2015 im lucky because honda shop is already close,i replaced new battery then i try to drive backalley my dashboard same thing problem again,i read your article in the comments section is helpful for me tomorrow, thanks rob
Thanks for providing such great value. After a couple of attempts, I was able to reset and clear out the abs and traction light. Thanks once again Rob.
Andrew, glad it worked out for you, thanks for the update!
Thank you for publishing these instructions. Just a heads up to future readers. This didn’t work for me on my 2011 Odyssey the first 5+ times I tried it. The ABS light would go off the first time as the instructions describe but would not come back on. However, I kept trying. I can’t be sure what, if anything but persistence, made the difference. I do think, because I was becoming more familiar with the instructions, that I was releasing the brake pedal quicker after the ABS light went off on the last try so perhaps that made a difference. So my advice is keep trying if it doesn’t work at first and continue to review the instructions each time to make sure you are following them to the letter (e.g., I don’t think I removed the keys as instructed in step 1 the first couple of tries).
Shawn, thanks for describing your experience and letting us know you finally got it to work…
It took three times in my 2011. Great write up, thank you.
Awesome, thanks for letting us know!
Thanks for the big help.I tried it 4 to 5 x and It didn’t work until i read the comment from Shawn to release the brake quickly and it worked.Thank you Guys!
Herman, thanks for the details of your experience! I’ll update the post to mention releasing the brake quickly. Appreciate your comment!
This is miraculous! Had this problem today after getting my battery replaced. I knew it would cause problems, so I went out in the rain tonight to fix it. Using Shawn’s suggestion to release the pedal quickly, I fixed it on the first try. Thank you SO much for this awesome information. It sounds like it’s saved a lot of people a lot of hassle and money!
Awesome! Glad to hear it worked for you!
I’ve added Shawn’s quick release advice to the post procedure.
IS THIS PROBLEM AFFECT IDDLING?MINE HAVE THE LIGHTS ON THE DASH AND AFTER STARTING,FEW SECONDS THEY ALLUMINATE AND THE ENGEN TURNS OFF.
Sorry, I lost your message. Should not affect the engine as far as I know, perhaps you have some other or an additional issue of some kind. Sorry I wasn’t more help.
Please can you send me all the photos for each number as I can’t see them? Thanks so much.
Aaron, sorry your message got lost, are you still having problems seeing the photos? I thought I fixed that issue…
Thank you so much worked on my 2011 honda crv ex after 4 attempt
Allan thanks for reporting your success with the ABS light fix on your 2011 Honda!
Do you think will work on Acura TSX 2009?
Probably worth a try, otherwise it’s a trip to the shop. Can’t hurt anything, but keep in mind if it’s a more serious issue the lights may come back on.
Today is Jan. 2, 2019….I just did my 2011 Odyssey with this VSA/ABS and Power Sliding Doors issues and it did worked the first try..Thank you!
Glad it worked for you, thanks for sharing!
Has anyone tried this on a 2012 Honda Odyssey Touring Elite. Lights are on for us after we had to jump our battery. Read in another thread that someone blew fuses trying this method on a 4th Gen Odyssey.
Mine is a 2013 and it worked fine. Only way I can think of blowing a fuse is if you short the wrong pins on the OBD connector.
just tried it. worked like a charm on the first go! well, the second go. i don’t think i had the paperclip all the way in the first time. if placed correctly, the error codes show up on the dash. if not placed correctly, the codes don’t show up. thanks again for the trick. oh the wonders of google and smart people that want to help people out!
Fantastic! You have no idea how satisfying it is to get a comment like this from you and so many others. So glad it helped. Pay it forward… Cheers, Rob
I just did it on my 2012 Odyssey EX-L today and it worked perfectly.
Thank you! Ever since the dealer replaced the battery in our 2012 Odyssey a few days ago, we’ve had the exact same problems with the dash warning lights and power doors. I followed your steps and it worked perfectly! (Released the brake quickly.) Saved me a trip back to the dealer!
Kevin, awesome, glad it worked out!!
This is magic. Thanks.
Afternoon! I was leaving a doctors app. this afternoon and saw a lady trying to get the hood up on her 2013 Accord. Dead battery. After jumping her car off, 3 lights were on that weren’t before. ABS, slippery, and brake. I followed your directions and got er on the first try. It’s always nice when we can lift a hand to help someone else, so Thank You much Mr. Rob for passing along your handy information! Take care, Randy
Randy, that’s just so awesome of you to help someone out like that! So glad the fix worked for both of you!
Hello, I want to say thanks very much for this info, it has just worked on my 2006 Honda FRV – had to jump start my car yesterday after it had been parked up for a week – weather has been cold, VSA & ABS lights came on. Absolutley loving it that they have been reset without a visit to a Honda main dealer. Once again can’t thank you enough 🙂
Fantastic, glad to help!
Thanks a million Rob not only you save me money but time and aggravation. God bless you Thanks again.
LLoyd, that’s just great! Thanks for reporting your successful results!
Rob, spot on! This was exactly the solution I was looking for. Thank you, I appreciate you sharing this very helpful information.
Frederick, awesome, thanks for reporting your success!
Anyone try this on a later model? I have a 2007
Give it a try, can’t hurt anything. Let us know if it works…
Fantastic I have honda accord 06 at the first try this work thank you Rob for the tip
Great! Thanks for letting us know of your success!
Need help attempted this procedure and apparently has completely messed something up after doing the pin in the OBD my brake pedal has no vacuum to it my van will not start and I cannot get it to shift out of park. What have I done what do I need to do to fix this I have too many kids to not have my van
oh yeah and I have unhooked the battery and hooked it back up I have also checked the main fuse it is not blown I have power to everything I can’t even think of what to try next that it could be
Caryn, sorry but it sounds like you need to visit a repair shop, the problem appears to be more involved than just a simple glitch.
Sorry to hear you have been unsuccessful and it didn’t work for you, it has worked for many, many others. Keep in mind this procedure is to clear a harmless but annoying glitch that can occur from time to time. If you have an actual legitimate fault or failure it will not help and you will need to visit a repair shop.
The jumper worked great to clear my abs/vsa lights, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the feedback!
The procedure only worked temporary for me. It clears all the lights but they come right back on as soon as you pull off. I have already changed the sensor. But I had changed the hub barrings because they were bad.
Kevin, thanks for the report. Good for others to take note that the posted procedure will reset the issue if caused by a random glitch, but an actual mechanical or electrical failure will require that the problem be repaired.
Worked like a champ the first time. Thanks for posting this!
Thanks for the report, glad it worked for you!
I just did the reset on my 2011 Honda odyssey. It worked on my second try. Thank you
Sergio, glad to hear it, thanks for the info!
I did it 15 times already and the abs light blinks twice, then shows up again and stays on 🙁
Pete, sorry to hear that. The procedure will fix the problem if it is just a random glitch, but you may very well have an actual mechanical or electrical failure. Others have reported issues with the ABS sensors and even bearing issues that cause the ABS sensors to malfunction. Good luck!
2012 Honda Odyssey EX-L – had issue with ABS and TRaction control lights on, door would not open unless ignition off. This procedure with pin 4 and 9 and light braking worked quickly, thanks. Practiced once, got on 2nd try. If not covered by warranty (or Honda claims damage), Honda wanted $280 just to diagnose.
Vincent, Glad it worked for you and thanks for the comment!
I’m embarrassed to say I had a little dyslexic episode and shorted the opposite end of the connector pins 5 and 16. The engine turns over but won’t run. Does anyone know which fuse(s) I burned out on my 2007 Honda Pilot?
Ooops! Sorry I don’t know off hand, pin 5 is ground, not sure what pin 15 is used for. I hope you got it going…
A little additional information on my pin 5 to 16 faux pas, the engine appears not to run due to the system not being able to recognize the ignition key. Also, my CAN OBDII reader does not power up when I plug it in.
Mark, did you ever resolve this?
Tried this on my ’05 Pilot, blew a fuse twice. It activates the imobelizer and can will not start until fuse is replaced. Any other suggestions?
Sorry, no you probably need to get professional help.
Got it fixed using your method. Thank you so much!
Great! Thanks for the update!
Question before I have my hisband try this, my lights came on after I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffice for an hour, accelaroration went to heck . Made it home and when I turned on Van light was aoff but came back on a few miles down the ran. Do you think this is the same as the issue you addressed
Hmmmm, sounds like something more serious may be at play. When I had the ABS/VSA lights on it never affected acceleration.
My 2016 Accord had the ABS, VAS, EPS & TPM lights on the dashboard due to low voltage battery last night. Battery changed but those said lights remain on. Short pinning 4 & 9 on the OBD connector using a paper clip did the trick for the ABS, VAS & EPS. For the TPM, tried another method by resetting the TPM button and worked. Did not have any tire pressure issues prior to low voltage battery but will go to shop to make sure tire pressures are all intact. Thank you for this suggestion and cost me NOTHING which was the awesome part. THANK YOU!!!!
Evelyn, Glad it helped! Thank you for reporting your experience…
It worked great on the third time. 2012 Odyssey EX. The trick seemed to be moving quick on and off the brake. Really appreciate the work you did on this Rob! Thanks for taking the time to post!
JC, glad to hear it worked for you and thanks for reporting your results!
Recently had front and back breaks put on my 2012 Honda Accord. When I picked up my car, the VSA and ABS lights came on and stays on. Also the Brake light comes on and goes off after I stop. Everything worked fine before I put breaks on the car. What do you think could be wrong?
I think I would go right back to the shop that did you brakes and let them resolve it. If the brake light comes on that could mean low fluid in the brake system – ?? Be careful and good luck!
Your instructions were crystal clear and perfect. I had a low battery problem and after fixing the charged battery, I found out these ABS and VSA lights. My car never moved, so these problems should not have been there (so was sure, it is just a computer glitch).
Just followed the instructions as mentioned and in the second trial, the lights had gone.
Just for information, my car is Honda Accord 2.4L, 2011 model (Right Hand Drive for India).
Munazzir, that’s fantastic, glad it worked for you. Thanks for the feedback, good to know this works on at least some Honda products outside the US market.
This worked for me! Wow thanks Rob. I feel so independent! Haha. Awesome instructions.
Thanks for the report Vaness, glad it worked for you!
Worked like a charm, couldn’t believe it!! Thanks Man!
Great! Thanks for letting us know!
2016 Honda CRV: Had Tire Pressure, VSA, ABS and Power Steering lights come on after sitting in 30 min of traffic. Took it to honda and it was the left front wheel speed sensor that needed replacing. That one sensor feeds information to all these systems
Your solution worked for me! Took three tries for me get sequence right – then success. Thanks!
Thanks for the success report!
Another successful reset. 2nd Try. Although, after the double blink, the light did come back on for a second, then went off and stayed off. Tested starting up the car it it stayed off. Love free fixes!
Awesome, glad it eventually worked and thanks for sharing your experience.
This worked for my 2012 Pilot after the battery died and I replaced it. Thanks for sharing
Great, thanks for the report!
I put in the fifth instead of the forth and in 9 and my car don’t want to power on. Is it possible to destroy my computer bord?
Pin 4 and pin 5 are both ground conductors so that error would not hurt anythung. Sounds like you have a “real” issue and not just the “glitch” the procedure can resolve. Is your battery dead?
I followed the procedure many times. When i short the pins i get tpms sign blinking also b1241 – 51 code blinking. Pls help.
Khaled, seems like you have a more serious situation. You could try googling the code, but that’s beyond my ability to help. Unfortunately you are probably going to need professional help.
Will this work for a 2012 honda crosstour???
Don’t know for sure, but seems to work on most Honda models of that vintage. Also depends if your problem is just the “glitch” often caused by a weak or dead battery, or something more serious.
i tried to get rid of (VSA off) light staying on, for honda pilot 2012.
but no results,
Tom, thanks for your report, you may have a more serious issue than just the “glitch” usually caused by a low or dead battery.
how long we have to hold the brakes until the light disappears.
also there was blinking “NO” on the trip meter , is it normal
Many have reported that they found it necessary to release the brake very quickly after the light comes on in step 4 and 6. Sorry, I have no idea about the tripmeter message.
I just messed first step , did short on pin 5 and 13, now having multiple failures , cabin lights , display, door locks, and some gauges
Ugh. I don’t know what pin 13 does (if anything) except it is unique to Honda. Pin 5 is ground. You may want to try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and hope that does a reset.
Thank you!!! It worked on my 2013 Ody after my battery discharged. Had to try three times bit it worked!
Great! Thanks for the report!
Thanks it worked for my 2012 odyssey. I want to thank you again. You are the savior.
Glad it worked for you, thanks for the report!
anyone know the procedure if you have a push button start?
Sorry, no I don’t. Maybe another reader can advise…
I’ve been having trouble with non opening sliding doors and with VSA, and ABS lights on. This occurred after I changed the hub bearing and the CV axle on the right front of my 2011 Odyssey. I had to drill out the ABS speed sensor, but I did this with the spindle hub still on the car and the CV axle in place as well. I did drill a small indent into the bearing race along side the knuckle area. I removed the CV axle to see why or if there was a problem with the speed sensor after having the VSA and ABS lights come on. Found some plastic still attached to the knuckle inside between the speed sensor and bearing. Cleaned that all out but had to remove the speed sensor and reclean and drill the holes out better. While putting it all back together, I cracked the housing of the speed sensor but the wires were still intact. So I figured what the hell. I placed back together with it being cracked cause I special ordered it from a after market auto parts store. After placing it back together, VSA and ABS lights were still on. Every time I worked on the Odyssey, I did disconnect the negative cable. After finding that the lights were still on, I special order another ABS speed sensor from the dealership and installed the sensor but lights are still on.. Just saw your article and looking forward to trying your solution tomorrow and pray it works.
AH- HOOO. IT WORKED. AFTER weeks of dealing with this, thank you thank you and thank YOU ……
Woohoo! Glad it all worked out! Thanks for your update.
Wow Rob you are genius. Not sure how you figured this out. Worked first time. I had quite a scare when this happened as I had my family in the van and could not open the sliding doors. Just by chance I shut the engine and removed the key that helped open the sliding doors. What a relief it was not a major problem.
Thanks Samir, glad it worked our for you. Don’t think I am a genius as I got a lot of the info from research and other sources. Maybe I just did a pretty good job of documenting it. Cheers!
Thanks it worked for me on Honda Odyssey 2013XL lights went on after original battery failed
and it was replaced in Honda Dealer . I noticed lights an my way home from dealership.:( Call them next day They said bring the car back for investigation.
What is important during the procedure is released the break pedal immediately after the ABS light goes off .
Mark, thanks for posting your experience and glad you got it to work for you.
I TRIED THIS PROCEDURE BUT INSTEAD MY ABS INDICATOR HAS BEEN FLUSHING IN 3 TIMES AND 3X AND 3X, ANY SUGGESTION
Sorry no, I am not a mechanic.
Thanks! Worked for me
My Honda accord of 2011 hat the problem after standing still for 2 weeks. The battery is 2 years old and he started quickly, so I am pretty sure that it was not the battery. After your trick everything is back to normal. Thumbs up! With me it worked after I release the brake the 3rd time. Indeed, it seems that it is important to quickly release the brake after the ABS light goes out. I saw that the display also shows a DTC code if the bridging of pins 4 and 9 is in the connector. There was DTC B2375 PA74. This should say something about the rain sensor for the windscreen wiper. The wipers work great so don’t know what the problem might be. I had no DTC error in my OSB2 app. Thank you for this great solution.
Thanks for the detailed info!
Wow! The power of the internet. Thank you so much. Fixed my car. You are awesome!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You are welcome!
Worked on my 2012 odyssey, but wouldn’t pass smog after. I read somewhere to do a drive cycle which some of you may have to do after this procedure.
Unfortunately it didn’t work for me. After the light blinks twice it’s turning on again.
Sorry, you may have an actual mechanical failure.
Interesting, thanks for the info!
Wow..thank you! Glad I found your blog. Worked for me!
Worked on 2nd try on my 2010 Accord Coupe. Thanks, Rob, you rock!!
Glad I found your post. 2011 CRZ w/ 40,000 and dealer wanted $3000+ to replace ABS module. Saw your post and decided to give it a shot. Lights went off and have driven several times and so far have stayed off. Usually electronic things like modules either work or don’t and are either good or bad in my experience. They don’t fix their self.
Great, thanks for posting your experience!
Did this just tonight on our 2013 Odyssey EX-L. I had to jump-start it this morning after the key was left on overnight and the ABS/VSA lights came on after starting. Thought I had maybe blown the ABS module during the jump-start. The sliding doors were acting weird too (not wanting to open) and it turns out that was tied to the ABS glitch. This reset procedure seems to have fixed both problems. Thanks for posting this!
Thanks for the report!
Is this work in 2013 honda accord ?
It should if it just a glitch and not a “real” problem.
You are the best, thank you!
I am facing the same problem on my Honda CR-V which was mentioned on #3 I need advice please
Clancyalu, sorry I am not very knowledgable of the more serious manifestations of this issue.
Hello Rob…My battery went dead after not driving for several months. Charged the battery on my 2012 Honda Civic CNG model and once started, had the VSA, ABS, brakes and power steering items pop up on my screen. I did exactly as described here but got TPMS DTC 00 then on the next line DTC No and down in the lower left, V-Diag on my screen. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Dave, sorry I am not a mechanic, but it sounds like your problem may be more involved than the “glitch” my procedure helps with.
Thanks Rob…It’s just sitting in my driveway for now but thinking it’s time to sell since I barely use it anymore.
Dave, my 2012 accord said “no” in the odometer screen I just did it anyway and it worked. My issue was a jump gone bad with reversed polarity………. Check your fuses first. There are fuses, at least in my accord in 3 different locations and there are several for the components you list. They are primarily under the hood in my car. I didnt suffer any fuse damage that I have found so far. I would imagine it’s totally possible you could blow a fuse hooking up the battery. In any event, if it’s not fuses, and the reset doesnt work you might need to go by a shop.
2012 Odyssey and it worked for me! Thank you!!
Worked on my 2012 Accord Coupe EXL to clear the ABS/VSC/”Brake” lights on dash after a jumper cable mishap.
Rob, thank you for publishing this on the website you sure help a lot of people like me. Own an odyssey 2011 touring and one morning I could not get my car started. The battery went dead, can not shift out of park, ABS and VSA dash lights stay on and the power sliding doors won’t open.
My friend Wes and I tried for hours to look for solutions on on You Tube until I found yours on Google. We followed your trouble shooting instruction and to our amazement it work like wonders. Again thank you for your help. God bless you always….
Awesome, glad it solved your problem!
This fixed the ABS issue on my 2012 Odyssey Ex-L, but now the side doors won’t respond to the buttons at all. No beeping or attempts to open or close them. They still work manually. And the rear lift gate button now only unlatches the rear door, it doesn’t open or close it. And it won’t manually unlatch either – it only unlatches through the dash button, but no power movement. Weird.
That is weird, I know the lack of the ABS sensing will inhibit the doors but if it’s working again the function should be restored. Did you start the car up, turn it off a couple times, I’m pretty sure I needed to do that for everything to go back to normal. Also check that the on/off switch for the doors (just above the door buttons on the dash) is set to on.
Wrestled with this some more and thought about it a lot. It seemed like a fuse issue, but no matter what I tried, it wouldn’t work. The punchline is: My mechanic was able to help me get this working again. And it was the fuses. Two of them!
Basically, when I did the short, I managed to blow not one but two fuses. I’m not sure which ones exactly, unfortunately, as my mechanic messed around with it for a bit for me, and I wasn’t right there with him. But the door locks worked fine, so they had to do with the motor for the doors and rear lift gate.
My experience with doing the short was that it worked the first time, but I didn’t do the brake-depressing quick enough. So I tried again, and couldn’t get it to work. I removed the paperclip I was using, and had to reinsert it a few times before finally getting it to work again. I’m pretty confident I put one of the paperclips in the wrong hole at one point during my attempts which is what led to this.
In talking to my mechanic, who I definitely trust, he was really clear that this could have been a LOT worse. He said if this ever happens again (battery dies and codes like ABS coming up), just bring it to him and he’ll clear them the right way for free. I would imagine other trustworthy mechanics that people who have relationships with may do the same, or for a very small fee. Or at the very least you can throw them a $20 or something as gratitude.
That said, I do appreciate this advice and post, and am glad to have tried it out. And it almost worked, no problem! I think if someone is completely rock solid they are in the right holes and have the brake-depressing down, then go for it.
But definitely be completely sure you are in the right holes!
2011 Odyssey EX-L, 96k miles on it, the two lights came on this morning out of the blue, had same sliding door issues as noted many times above. Read, re-read, read a third time, found a paper clip in the back of my desk drawer, and headed out to the car with a flashlight. BTW, I’m very good at following instructions exactly as written.
First attempt, it worked. Lights went out. Disconnected the jumper (and put it in the pull-out drawer above the cool box), Ignition off. Started car, no lights, sliding doors worked as before. Will be monitoring the battery as it’s been a few years since changed, and that seems to be the trigger for this to happen. Battery has not gone dead since it was replaced.
Thank you for posting this procedure! It was very well written.
Rob, thanks for reporting your experience! Agree, keep an eye on the battery, clean the terminals, etc. Low battery voltage seems to trigger this “glitch”. Good luck.
I am so thankful that I found your writings here. That really worked for my 2011 honda odyssey 174k miles.
You released the stress from those lights on not only save money. Thank you ao much. God bless you.
Glad it worked for you, thanks for the comment!
Both indicators stayed on right after I changed a new battery. I tried your instruction…
Many THANKS to you as it worked for my Odyssey 2011!!! Make sure “release the brake pedal QUICKLY after the light comes on.”
Thanks for the feedback!
Wow, thank you Rob, I am so happy, your article is so detailed and the solution was also so simple.
Paul, greay, glad it worked for you!
This year I also had this problem and the indicated procedure worked for me but the error came back fairly quickly and kept coming back in higher and higher frequency until the lights no longer went out. Installed a new battery and changing the brake oil did not help. Eventually the ABS pump turned out to be defective. After a revision of the pump (260 Euro) the problem is completely gone. The procedure had to be carried out one more time to get the lights out. Then I also felt a difference in the brake pedal. The pressure in the brake pedal changed during the procedure. I had never felt this before. Fortunately, the Christmas tree is now out on my dashboard.
Jan, thank you for your report! Goes to show that if the lights won’t go out, or continue to come back on, there is more than just a glitch and an actual mechanical issue probably exists.
Just had to replace the alternator on our 2011 Honda Odyssey that had caused the battery to completely drain. Once replaced and the battery recharged the abs and vsa indicators would not turn off. Used your procedure using quick brake pedal releases and lights turned and have remained off first time. Thanks!
Great! Thanks for the report!
Thank you, it worked for me as well😁 I just replaced the alternator and couldn’t figure out why these were on or how to clear them…. worked like a charm
I just fixed the same problem with my 2011 Honda Odyssey after jump-started my car. You are such a genius. Thank you very much!
Glad to hear it worked for you Kenny!
Hi my abs light stays on after i do the procedure and the abs light blinks two times. Does it mean abs has a big issue or fuse problem? The abs fuse under the hood is fine
Sorry I don’t know, I am not a mechanic.
Hi, pleas help!
I did the procedure on 2008 accord. The ABS light blinks two times but it stays on. I tried many time Does this mean its a serious problem or a fuse?? I checked the abs fuse under the hood, its ok
Great info….worked like a charm. Thanks for saving me a lot of $$!
Glad it worked, thanks for the report!
Rob you are awesome. This worked on my 2012 Honda Odyssey. Thanks for helping me save a few bucks
Fantastic, thanks for letting me know!
Thank you! Worked great on a 2014 Accord EX-L with Push-Button start. If it wasn’t already noted, Begin with the original instructions of inserting the jumper. Do not step on the brake, but press the start button once to get to accessory (or ‘I’). Now follow the original steps by stepping on the brake and pressing the start button again, this will get you to ‘II’ but will not start the engine.
Great info! I’ll need to add that to the post for pushbutton start models.
2012 Accord, Worked like a charm for me. Thank you so much!
Great! Thanks for the report!
BADA BING SIR. Fixed me, only no abs light , just the check engine, now abs /vsa/f/a problem gone. Going to drive it a few drive cycles to be sure, but the proverbial light came on when you mentioned low battery, which we replaced a few months ago. I was messing around at the fuse panel and noticed a missing fuse which I replaced only to be nailed with the tdcs. Very astute observation and remedy. I am a mechanic of 30 years , but you saved me potentially spending way too much time messing with it. Thank you one final time, good to find a fellow who knows his s#&t. Cheers
I have a question hopefully you can answer it. I tried the reset procedure and when I turn the key to acc while holding the brake, the abs comes on once and I let go but does not come on a second time to hold the brake pedal down. thank you for your time
Sorry, it may not work for all Honda models, or you may have a “real” problem. Try a few more times, as many have reported the timing is very critical.
hi,i have a FRV and had battery trouble due to the lock down. VSA light has come on. Would the OBD connector pin be the same as i have tried it a few times??
Sorry, I don’t know. Pin 9 on the OBD used in this procedure is “vendor specific” so it’s function is subject to vary between manufacturer and even between models. It’s possible it is not the same on the FRV as other Honda models. Sorry!
Worked for me on my 2012 Odyssey, saving potentially 100s of $$$. After dead battery and jump, sliding doors won’t work and ABS lights ON. We were too focused on the sliding doors and reset some fuse until we saw your blog. Fixing the ABS lights fixed everything.
Awesome, glad to hear it worked for you!
Is it applicable to Toyota cars
Highly unlikely, the procedure is probably specific to Honda. Sorry!
Hi Thank you it worked to my Honda Civic 2014 coupe. Godbless
Great! Thanks for letting us about your success!
I hope this helps I just replaced my alternator and this happened. I am gonna try this and see if is works tomorrow. I already took screen shots of the steps. You may have saved me another trip to the dealership next week.
Please help, i was driving my car honda civic 2010 and dash board was indicating VSA light and then car was not moving. Sametime enginelight wss indicating. I did resart the car and VSA indicator was disappeared. But engine light indicator remains?
Sorry, I am not a mechanic. This post is about fixing a common “glitch” where the VSA and ABS lights are reporting a problem that doesn’t
really exist, usually after a dead battery. It sounds like you have some other issue, suggest you contact a reputable service shop that can diagnose your “check engine” light.
Thanks Rob. It worked on my 2011 Odyssey.
Excellent! Thanks for the report!
Great article, really helped me to fix this issue quickly and precisely as mentioned. Thank you!
Awesome, thanks for the feedback!
2011 Honda Crv Abs And Vsc light both on after a dead battery Every step in the directions is working fine but at the end I aM getting 3 blinking lights instead of 2 following the directions after that the lights are still staying on I have tried seveal time Any Ideas with the light blinking 3 times compared to the 2 times Thanks
Sorry, no idea.
I have a honda civic 2015 EX, my VSA, abs and power staring light come on after changing front wheel baring, does this fusing 4 to 9 obd work on my car too?
Don’t know. Perhaps the ABS sensor was disturbed (or broken?) during the bearing fix? I’m not an expert, just passing along what works when the battery goes dead and generates a “glitch”. Probably won’t hurt to try it tho. Good luck.
THANK YOU! I had to do it about 3 times & it did work! I’m so amazed. 2011 Honda Accord.
Excellent! Thanks for reporting your experience!
This worked on my 2014 Honda Odyssey EX-L. I swapped the battery and a “FCW system failed” warning light came on. The sliding doors wouldn’t work properly. I was able to fix the doors, but not the warning light. My local mechanic did not find a fault and the local Honda dealer wanted $180 just to hook it up to their computer. I scoured the net and found this blog. You saved me $$$!!! Thank you!!!
It works on a push-start Honda! I installed a new battery on my 2014 Honda Odyssey EX-L. The “FCW system failed” warning starting flashing and the power sliding doors wouldn’t work. I was able to fix the sliding door, but the “FCW system failed” warning remained. My local mechanic couldn’t fix it, and the local Honda dealer wanted $180 just to hook it up to the computer. After scouring the web, I found this site. After two tries, problem solved. I followed the direction you posted, pressed the push start, stepped on the brake pedal, after the ABS warning light flashed and disappeared, my Odyssey is back to normal. Thank you! You saved me lots of $$$!!!
Glad it worked for you! Thanks for reporting your experience!
This worked great on my 2013 Honda Odyssey! If you are even in Saskatoon swing by my place. I owe you one!
Sounds good, might just do that!
My car is 2013 Honda Odyssey too.
I found ABS and VSA warning light after replacing the battery.
And both sliding door also did not work during engine running.
But I fixed all after reading your report.
Thank you so much your information.
Have a safe journey!
Thanks! Glad it worked for you!
You are a life saver !!
Glad it worked for you!
This simple trick solved the same problem on my 2012 Odyssey caused by a drained battery. Thank you so much
Mine is a CRV the lights stayed on after the shocks where replaced, the one shock has a level sensor, mine was faulty I had to pay the full price at Honda for the repair, they canceled the diagnostic charge at least.
Hey Rob thanks for the advice it worked perfectly so far!! This problem occurred on my 2009 Ridgeline.
Glad to hear it worked for you! Thanks for posting your experience!
Hey Rob thanks for the advice it worked perfectly!! I had the problem with my 2009 Ridgeline.
My Honda accord abs and handbrake light is on. Please help!!!
Hi, this procedure is to reset a glitch with the VSA and ABS lights that happens sometimes, especially when the battery gets low or goes dead. It sounds like you may have some other issue which could be an actual hardware failure. If the issue is not corrected by trying the procedure described in the post you should talk to a Honda service center. Sorry, I am not a mechanic, I just had the glitch happen on my own Honda and shared the procedure to reset it.
You’re a saint. The article was written clearly with great photos. No detail left out, and no fluff.
Thanks for this article you are a Dealer saver!!
Glad to hear it worked for you!
Just finished my Wife is happy. Appreciate the knowledge and sharing.
Happy wife, happy life!
Worked like a charm. Thanks for posting this. 5 min search on web and 10 min trying, saved a couple hours and some cash if had to go to a dealer!
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Thanks Rob. Honda Accord 2014 with Push-Button start. TSA and ABS light on after battery replacement, worked perfectly.
Very cool, thanks for the report!
Same procedure with a keyless system. While pressing the brake and pushing start button the 09 Acura TL AWD will start. Is this a concern?
WorldExpy in the comments posted this, let me know if it helps:
“Thank you! Worked great on a 2014 Accord EX-L with Push-Button start. If it wasn’t already noted, Begin with the original instructions of inserting the jumper. Do not step on the brake, but press the start button once to get to accessory (or ‘I’). Now follow the original steps by stepping on the brake and pressing the start button again, this will get you to ‘II’ but will not start the engine.”
I mistype my comment, first sentence was a question “Same procedure with a keyless system?” I will try what you said.
I did what you suggested however car attempted to start but did not, so I continue with original instructions anyways, at the end the ABS light flashes three times and remains on.
I had the same problem yesterday. Btw, I had ABS, LKAS, CMBS, and a host of other error codes that have triggered. It was due to a weak battery (4 yr old, 70k miles). Once I jumpstarted the car, and drove it for 5 min (to recharge the battery turning off some of the accessories dependent on the battery like AC, music player etc), I’ve pulled out to a safe location to stop and turned off the engine for 5 min. Then, I restarted the engine and drove the car back home for 5 min, and all the error codes were gone. For now, I am good and definitely need to replace the battery sometime soon.
After completing the reset, when I start the car the RPM’s will Rev to redline, there was no issue with the engine prior to the reset, any suggestions?
Buenas noches…saludos desde Mexico….tengo un problema en mi Honda CRV 2006…lo que pasa es que el modulo del ABS continua funcionando aun apagado el motor…..ya lo revisaron pero me dicen que es el Relay del ABs….alguien sabra donde se localiza….o….ha tenido este problema y como solucionarlo….muchas gracias
Buen día, desafortunadamente no soy un experto en este tema, pero encontré esta información: https://fusesdiagram.com/honda/fuses-and-relay-honda-cr-v-2002-2006.html Espero que esto ayude, ¡Buena suerte!
My triangle light comes on first after 30 seconds drive the ABS and Vsa lights comes on .2009 honda pilot
Hi Emeka, did you fix your problem? How did you do it?
Hi Emeka, my care (Honda Accord 2005) gets the same problem. Can you please let me know how you fixed the problem? Thank you so much 🙂
Replaced my battery and ABS stayed on. Worked for 2011 Odyssey EX on the first try! Thanks for the tip.
Glad to hear it, thanks for your comment!
Thank you Rob. My 2016 odyssey is fixed. It happened camping trip after battery was dead and jumped. I replaced my battery but VSA and ABS light was still on. I read your article and used paper clip. It worked. At first time, It didn’t work but it work second time. Thank you again.
Excellent, thanks for the comment!
’15 Odyssey – preemptively changed my battery because it was 6 years old.
Didn’t have VSA or ABS lights on, my issue is now I can’t change vehicle settings. Brings up the “Unable to Complete” message. Some have reported that this reset will fix that but after about 10 unsuccessful attempts I guess I’m just going to have to learn to live with the default vehicle settings.
This worked great! Thank you so much!
Thanks for your comment!
This worked for me on my 2011 odyssey! I actually gave up, got mad and went back later to make it work! Keep trying and don’t give up!!
This worked perfectly on our 2012 Odyssey. Thank you so much for sharing this. Now the question is, who and how was this figured out?
So I don’t remember exactly but when I had the problem with my Odyssey several years back, somehow I managed to get access to some service documents and found it there. I rewrote the procedure to be easier to follow and posted it. Glad it’s been useful to so many Honda owners.
CRV 2013. I left the sidelights on for several hours and the battery went flat. I got a jump-start from a friend and shortly afterwards several dashboard warning lights came on and stayed on. PS, AWD, Traction, etc. I’ll cut to the fix. The front offside wheel speed sensor had failed and this caused the dashboard warning lights to come on and stay on. It’s a simple job to remove the sensor and replace with a new one. I bought the part for about £25 UK. It took me 20 minutes to replace. The local Honda dealer wanted £600 to fix the fault. This would include the replacement of a wheel bearing. Of course this quote was given verbally. They couldnt put it in writing.
Honda CRV 2013. A faulty wheel speed sensor caused several dashboard warning lights to appear. PS, ABS, TPMS, The vehicle will switch to AWD These lights will stay on until the faulty sensor is replaced.. Replacement sensor can easily be obtained for about £25 UK Beware of taking the vehicle into the Honda main dealer. Diagnosis and repair charges are very expensive
Check the wheel sensors. A faulty wheel sensor caused most of my dashboard warning lights to come on and they would not reset. The car also switched into permanent AWD. Replacing the faulty sensor cleared down the warning lights and cleared the AWD. Typical sensor cost is £25 UK. Beware, a Honda dealer might rip you. I was quoted £600 to sort it. It took me 20 minutes
It works for my 2011 Honda Odyssey EX-L which encountered the same issue after a jumper start due to low battery. Thank you so much Rob for sharing the solution! I tried several times and finally made it after read througth Shawn’s comments. The trick is to release the brake quickly and be patient.
Glad it helped!
This worked. Thank you Rob. VSA and ABS lights on after jump start with AUTOWIT SuperCap2 supercapacitor jump starter.
After changing one of the front hubs of my accord 2009, the ABS and VSA lights permanently showed up. Could this be related to the hub change, because the mechanic had to transfer the abs senor from the old hub to the new one?
Could be, I’m not a mechanic so don’t know all the potential issues, but there definitely seems to be some cause and effect, so it would be prudent to bring the issue to your mechanics attention.
How far do I push the paperclip in the OBD Connector? I want to be sure that I am trying this correctly on my 2013 Odyssey. I have tried this method many times but the ABS light does not go off. I have also tried releasing the brake quickly after I turn the ignition switch to II as noted. I’m going to give this another few shots before I bring it to the dealer…I really appreciate the help.
Hi, well, far enough that it makes contact with the connector pins, I would say no more than about 1/4″. Make sure you are using a plain metal paperclip and not one that is coated with plastic, or paint, or some other coating.
Thanks so much Rob, this worked perfectly with just one try on my 2011 honda accord Ex-L v6
Awesome! Thanks for reporting your experience.
Thanks, Rob – it worked for me after replacing a tired battery – I also had several other indications: “Check ABS / VSA / TPMS / BRAKE / EMERGENCY BRAKE / HILL ASSIST” – there might have been more… – but these alerts were all cleared after this procedure.
Also, here’s another pushbutton start note: For my 2016 CR-Z, you have to push the start button twice to get to the “II” condition on the dash (and you can’t step on the brake either time, or the car will start !) – so, after you push the button the 2nd time, then immediately step on the brake and watch the ABS indicator – when the ABS light goes out, then continue with step 5 in the original procedure above . Thanks !!!!!!!!
Great info, thanks for posting!
You’re a money saver. Worked on 2nd try. Thank you so much.
Great! Thanks for reporting your experience!
No luck for me,
i have accord 2015 with all ABS, VSA, Parking, Steering lights are on, they are yellow accept parking in red color, i tried it but it flashed 2weice and did not go, instead it returned, in the morning lights were gone but returned in few minutes, i tried your procedure like 4 or 5 times with no good luck.
whats your suggesting for me?
Sounds like you have something more serious going on. The “fix” in this post corrects an anomaly that can be triggered by a weak battery, however if there is an actual failure of some sort it can’t help. Unfortunately, I suspect you may fall into the latter category. Sorry.
Worked on the third try with the quick release of the brake pedal as noted. You save me a trip to the dealership! Thank you!
Thanks for reporting your experience!
Like two others, after connecting the ODB pins 4 and 9, pressing the brake, and then the ignition the car no longer had any power. It had power and would start before. This is a 2015 Honda Odyssey Touring Elite. It has a remote fob with a push start button (key less). Very sad at this point.. Checked fuses near the battery – all are good. Will start checking fuses under the dashboard next.. If anyone knows what fuse to check or other ideas it would be very much appreciated.
After experiencing this issue, you may want to think twice before sorting the two pins… Your car could become useless…
Checked the remaining fuses… One of the last I checked was blown. I don’t recall the fuse location number but it was in the fuse compartment under the hood on the passenger side close to the windshield and called ‘BACKUP’. 10A in the middle row of fuses closest to the center of the car. After replacing it the error was cleared and all power was back to normal…
Craig, thanks for your report of difficulty and follow up with the resolution.
Worked for.myb2015 Honda Pilot, thank you.
Hi there. Like another commentator, when I tried inserting the paper clip I didn’t get the normal startup screen but rather “TPMS DTC 00”then on the next line “DTC No”. In your reply, you said maybe it was a more serious issue and not the glitch.
But I’m fairly certain I have the glitch as this issue came up in my 2012 Odyssey after jumping it; no issue at all until then. I have now replaced the 7 year old battery but the ABS/VSA light issue remains.
Any additional thoughts on getting past the TPMS DTC screen so I can try the brake pedal release method?
Ren, is this on a touring model? Obviously you have a model with a more sophisticated display than I had on my 2013 EX-L (which I no longer have). So my guess as to the meaning of the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is something to do with the Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) but the “00” and “No” seem to indicate there is no issue currently present. Seems like perhaps the pin shorting on the OBD connector triggered the display to present DTC’s. I wonder if on your vehicle there are some other buttons you can press to scroll thru more codes or perform other tasks? Perhaps using dash or steering wheel buttons to examine ans clear the DTC’s? I did a quick Google search and there is a lot of info out there about this for vehicles like yours with a more sophisticated display. Perhaps you can dig up some info for your model on how to cycle thru any other DTC’s that may be present (like the ABS light) and clear them. Sorry, I don’t even have a Honda anymore to play around with. If you do find anything please report back, it may help other readers with a vehicle like yours.
Who wrote this article? He or she saved a ton of time for me? It worked!!!
Used port 5 instead of 4 (but also 9 still) for a 2024 civic coupe and this worked. Thank you so much!
Hey Bud, y have a 2008 accord but de abs light blink 3 times and I was o able to fix this problem, what you recommend me?
Honda Accord 2011 3.5 v6. ABS/VSA lights came on after alternator replacement. This procedure worked the reset the code. Thanks you!
Thanks for the report!
Honda Odyssey 2012 TE – battery died after 5 yrs – this post was very helpful and still works.
Because the weather just changed the TPS was also on and after many attempts to clear the ABS and VCS lights, it wouldn’t work.
Put air in all the tires. Quick road test to clear the TPS. Went through the procedure again, and the warning lights were cleared the first time.
Thank you Rob!!!
2011 Honda Odyssey Touring ABS/VSA lights came on after replacing alternator, sliding doors also did not work. This fix worked for lights and doors in 5 minutes. Thanks!
Glad it worked for you!
This saved my 2015 Honda Fit EX with a smart key I had to do it 3 times, So far so good. Ive had a low battery issue but the lights didnt come on until I had the tires rotated. A mile from walmart all these lights came on including tpm and there were some flashing. Talk about jumping out of your skin. I turned around went back to walmart and didnt give them too hard of time cause you never know, and the battery issue. Mine is a smart key and standard 6 SPD transmission. I replaced the battery & followed the smart key instructions and DID NOT PUSH THE CLUTCH. Found this blessing of a thread and wanted to say thank you Rob and God bless you!
Thanks for your feedback which should help others with the smart key!
Thank you! Worked for me after a dash cam usb phantom drained my wife’s 2011 odyssey. I rarely leave comments but I had to thank you!
Thanks for the comment and glad it worked out for you!
Hi , my 2011 Honda odessey run out of gas was it was refilled and started the ABS and Traction lights where on and not going out
Is this a problem with sensors ?
Sorry, don’t know. This fix is typically associated with a dead or weak battery. Good luck!
Does this do anything different then deleting the codes with a code reader? My lights keep coming back on after replacing the said abs sensor and deleting the abs codes a couple times with a reader.
Yes basically, clears a glitch caused by a dead or weak battery. If the error keeps coming back you probably have an actual failure somewhere else.
This worked on my 2012 Odessy! Battery died two weeks ago. VSA and ABS lights on and doors not opening while car running. This reset everything! Thank you!!!
Now I have the sliding door on my 2012 Odyssey after shorting pins 5 and 9 on the OBD connector to reset the ABS light. I think it’s supposed to short pin 4 to 9 (based on from other sources on internet) that seemed wrong to lead to sliding door issue as below
1. The doors can open/close with key is off and the key is out of the ignition.
2. There is no way to open the doors electrically if the key is on. Close is ok but when I try to open, there is the sound. Sound wont go away unless you shut off the key or turn switch to off position
Anyone knows how to fix it please help thanks
This is because the doors are programmed not to open if the car is in motion, but without the ABS working the computer can’t determine if the car is moving or not, so by default it disables those doors. If you turn the power door slide switch to OFF (see photo right), it is possible to manually open the door while the engine is running even with the ABS/VSA light illuminated. Note that the door will still close electrically with the engine running as long as the slide switch is ON. Also, the doors will close and open normally with full power control as long as the engine is off.
Thanks Rob, that’s what I having problem now. Do you think after ABS light reset successfully then the sliding door will normally?
Or how to reset the sliding door to work as normal like before?
Eddy, Yes it should, unless there is something else going on. As previously mentioned if the ABS light is on the car doesn’t know if it is moving or not. The reset procedure in this post may not reset the ABS light if you have an actual failure like in the ABS sensors or ABS control unit. Also note I am not a Honda technician, just someone who had the ABS light issue due to a dead battery. Good luck!
I am just concerned if Pin 5 short pin 9 causing the issues or not? I see people short pin 4 to 9 should not be issue but questioning about shorting pin 5 to pin 9, thanks
No idea what you are referring to, my instructions suggest shorting pin 4 and 9 and hundreds of others have had success. You must have my post confused with something else. Good luck.
You count the bottom row from right to left so your number 4 would become number 5 when other people count from left to right. The number 9 from the top row stays the same between your count and other people count due to it’s counted from right to left.
Hope you understand what I tried to tell you, thanks
Eddy, so I am using the actual pin numbers as specified by the connector manufacturers. This is the safest way as it is very easy to get confused otherwise. My diagram in the post is looking at the OBD connector under the dash head on with the wide part at the bottom, the numbering corresponds to the official pin connector numbering scheme as specified by manufacturer documentation. Conversely, if you were to look head on at the connector on an OBD cable that mates with the under dash connector, the pin numbering would be reversed. Perhaps this is the discrepancy you are referring to. It is very important to consider perspective (looking at the front or back of the connector), orientation (wide part at the top or bottom) and sex (whether it is the male or female part). Always use the manufacturer numbering to avoid this confusion. Often the pin numbers are embossed on the connector body although they may be hard to see. I made my diagram like I did (perhaps it might be considered “upside down”) so it corresponded exactly with the actual connector orientation under the dash on my Honda, just to avoid any of those potential confusions. You don’t even really need to know the pin numbers just jumper it as shown in the photo. Now it is entirely possible in other year/model Honda’s, that the wide part of the connector is at the top when looking at it head on, so yes that would be confusing. Hope that helps.
I finally found the issue. The problem was from the new ABS sensor. One of two pins was bent inside the plug therefore the sensor never connected to the computer that’s reason why it always showed no ABS sensor presented. I bent it straight and the ABS light gone away right after I plugged the sensor cable, and the sliding works now normally. Basically I dont need to reset by connecting pin 4 to 9 anymore, it’s automatically reset by itself. Thanks again for all feedbacks. Have a wonderful day
Awesome, good job troubleshooting!
Didn’t work for my 2013 Honda Pilot, but after I did this, my navigation and backup camera screen is no longer working.
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