HomeMods, Tech Talk & TipsProjects & ModsSplendide Washer/Dryer Door Latch/Lock Bypass


Splendide Washer/Dryer Door Latch/Lock Bypass — 23 Comments

  1. how can i know that which two wires to joint to make bypass successful. there are three wires red black and yellow in lg washer.

    • Hi, LG washer is a different brand and may not have the same type of switch, etc. You could experiment. One of the wires should have mains voltage (black?), one is probably neutral (yellow? – with power off ohm out to see if it is common with frame ground) and the third wire should be the switched lead (red?). My guess would be to short BLK/RED but do so at your own risk. If I am wrong you will probably pop the circuit breaker.

  2. We have ours apart (same brand as yours) but our colors are brown,red,blue. We are taking a shot with red and brown

    • Good luck! Guess you have a few combinations to try. If you get it wrong worst case you will pop the circuit breaker at your rv panel.

  3. Thanks so much for your informative post. Ours is also a 2005 Splendide, but it is a WD2100XC model. We had experienced another common problem with the Splendide washer/dryers. That is, “broken door handle.” While searching for information on that, I found your post. So, while repairing that problem, I decided to help eliminate the problem again in the future, and implement your lock bypass solution.

    My lock did indeed have the Black/White/Brown color scheme, as the technician described to you, so my solution was quite straight-forward. I wasn’t too concerned about returning the latch to proper function in the future, so I just cut the wires, stripped them back 1/4″, used a twist on wire connector to join them, & then wrapped with electrical tape for water-proofing. I also wrapped the latch end wires in tape to keep them together. If I decide to return the lock function in the future, I’ll just remove the twist connector and install butt splices.

    While our latch was still working as designed, the delay was a pain, and I’m sure led to some pre-emptory attempts to open the locked door, thereby adding stress to the poorly designed handle. Our handle lasted about 9 years, so I don’t feel too bad about having to replace it. I bought the OEM part from Westland Sales (800-356-0766) for $40 + shipping. Seems high, but is a lot better than the $117 for the same part from PPL. Thanks again for your helpful post. My wife is happy.

  4. Thanks A LOT for this post.
    We were having problems with the latch not unlocking and then we broke the handle off trying to open the door. Did what Chris did, ordered the handle from Westland and completely bypassed the switch. Great help, thanks again!

  5. Thanks to this posting I got the door open, pulled the boot edging off and pulled the switch. I had the black-white-brown wires. pulled black and brown connectors out of the plug and taped them together. Put the switch back in, boot re-installed and perfection!
    Ordering a new handle today.
    Thanks a Bunch

    • Yeah, seems like there is no standard for the wire colors! So of the three wires one is hot with 120 volts, one is ground and the remaining is the switched conductor. The techie approach is to use a voltmeter/ohmmeter to determine which is the hot wire and which is the ground, the remaining wire will be the switched conductor. Something like this:

      1) Set your meter to the scale for measuring 120 volts AC, put one probe on a good ground (like the washer cabinet where bare metal is exposed) and then probe each wire (after you have disconnected them from the switch), one of them will have 120 volts on it. Make a note of what color.
      2) Set your meter to the lowest ohms scale. Again put one of the probes on the ground and probe the other two wires (but NOT the identified “hot” wire), one of them will show continuity and that will be the ground.
      3) The remaining wire is the switched conductor.
      4) Here’s where I don’t remember if the machine wants to be grounded or have 120 volts to bypass the latch. I’m guessing ground, so short the ground wire to the switched wire. If that doesn’t work short the hot wire to the switched wire. One of those should do the trick.

      The non techie approach is to guess. One of the three combinations of shorting two of the wires together will fix the problem, another will not fix the problem, but the third will blow your circuit breaker because you are shorting 120 volts to ground. That actually happened to me because I guessed wrong on my machine! It shouldn’t hurt anything assuming your 120v circuit breaker is working properly, but it is not the most elegant method. Be careful and good luck! Post back here what you found out as that may help others that have wire colors like yours!

  6. Update..I ordered and install new door switch now the washer won’t start. Dryer works fine. Any idea ?

    • Bobby, well I’m not an expert on these machines and I don’t own one anymore, but long ago and far, far away I was an electronics repair tech. When troubleshooting, if I replaced a suspected bad part and it didn’t fix the problem, it was either because the replacement part was also bad, the replacement part was incorrectly installed, or the problem was elsewhere. Odds are it would be the latter. Have you talked to Splendide?

    • Possibly, or you could just bypass it as described in the post and see if that does the trick. It’s been years since we’ve had this particular washer so my memories of it are a bit faded…

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